The Boyne river from Knowth |
Well the weather cleared and we had a day in Santiago before we flew out to Ireland. We explored the old city of Santiago and then had time in the Santiago cathedral museum. It was just amazing all the different areas and parts that are in a cathedral. You just think of it as a big building for church but there are so many different ‘hidden’ areas and corridors that it is no wonder Dan Brown is able to come up with conspiracy theories galore of secret passages. Unfortunately the time for the English tour of the Cathedral roof did not fit in with our flight schedule and so we missed out on it.
The passage tomb at Knowth |
After re-organising our luggage to cope with the 20kg bag
limit on Aer Lingus we made our way to the airport to journey across the sea to
Dublin. We made sure we had an extra coat or two available for when we landed
in Ireland and the weather did not disappoint us. With a minimum of fuss
(thanks to Mike’s great directions) we made our way to Drogheda to a gorgeous
little lock keepers cottage for our first accommodation in Ireland. Fortunately
Mike had also made a reservation at a local restaurant and we enjoyed a lovely
meal. Just as well Mike gave great directions because we have found already
that no-one in Ireland (well where we are staying) has an address with a street
and street number. Makes it fun for the GPS as they all have an address like
‘Arnstown County Wexford’ – I think it is a ploy to make you speak to people.
You get close then you find someone to speak to and ask do you know so-and-so
who has a B&B – oh yes they are down this lane and take the next left etc
etc.
Lighthouse at Howth looking across Dublin Bay |
We then started our Ireland adventure the following day
finding out about some Irish history separated by a few thousand years with the
Battle of the Boyne and also the Neolithic tombs of Knowth and Newgrange. The
Battle of the Boyne was the largest battle fought on the Irish mainland with 60
000 men involved in a one day battle over who was to be the king of England. It
was a little convoluted (as is all conflict) as Louis XIV (who we found out a little
bit about while in France) was using the Battle in Ireland to distract William
(King of England) from the war in Europe where just about everyone had teamed
up against him because they were concerned about his ambitions to take over
Europe. Amazing how convenient it was for these rulers to use people’s lives
for their own ambitions.
Knowth and Newgrange were amazing examples of the Neolithic
passage tombs from around the time of 3000BC. The engineering, commitment and
artistry involved took your breath away. They were astonishing and it was an
amazing afternoon despite the Irish weather being exactly as we thought it
would be – cold and wet. As with the other pre-history experience in France it
raised more questions than answered because any explanation of exactly why they
were build, how they were used, what was the significance of the passage tombs
and what do all the etchings mean are all theories and conjecture. Makes for
some interesting theories!
Rosslare beach and the Irish Sea |
The following day we travelled down the east coast to some
amazingly spectacular spots and even put our hands in the Irish Sea. That was
the only part of the body that was going to be exposed to the bracing waters of
the Irish Sea at Rosslare despite the presence of a Lifeguard tower
(surprisingly not manned at this time of year although to be honest I really
can’t imagine it being warm enough to be required at any time of the year).
This may have had something to do with the howling wind that buffeted us every
time we exited the car – there was a yellow alert for strong winds for the
whole country. Again with the size of Ireland if one part has strong winds it
affects the whole country.
We think our time in Europe and on the Camino may have
prepared us for Ireland as our eyes are not being hurt by the intense green of
the countryside – we have been eased into it by some of our previous time. If
we were landing straight from the brown expanses of Australia I don’t know if
our senses could cope.
We made our way to New Ross in county Wexford and today will
explore the Hook peninsula and Waterford before heading to County Cork and our
accommodation near Kinsale.
Love to all
S&E
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