Thursday, 4 June 2015

You take the high road ...

Belsay Hall
 Greetings from bonny Scotland – on a bright and clear however still chilly evening. We made it to Scotland this afternoon and for the first time on entering a new country actually came across a designated entry to the country. Obviously despite not voting for independence last year they still want everyone to know where their country is.
Part of the Quarry garden
The last couple of days have been great days exploring parts of northern England. Yesterday we started off at Belsay Hall and Castle which was in the hands of the Middleton (not sure if they were related to Kate) family for over 700 years until about 1980. It started off with the defensive tower built about 1370 which then had a manor house attached to it in the 17th century when life became not quite so violent. Later still a new manor house (Belsay Hall) was built on the estate a short distance from the original castle. At the same time Sir Charles built a whole new village and relocated everyone off the estate (obviously not short of a quid). To build the Hall they quarried stone from the estate and later it was turned into an amazing quarry garden. Belsay Hall was requisitioned by the government during WWII and eventually in the 1960’s it became impossible for the estate to maintain. The family moved to another house on the estate and handed over the castle and Hall to the state in 1980. This must have been such a difficult decision for something that had been in the family for so long – however it was probably a case of doing that or losing everything.  All the furniture and fittings were sold to pay the tax man and as part of the agreement the Middleton family wanted Belsay Hall to remain unfurnished as that is part of the building’s history. The Middleton family still own the estate so it was not a case of losing it all. It was certainly a great way to spend the morning before we headed to the north eastern coast and the delightful village of Beadnell. The coastal part of Northumberland is obviously a popular part of the country and it was great to have a walk along the beach.
Lindisfarne priory ruins
Lindisfarne castle
This morning we headed up to Holy Island and Lindisfarne castle and priory. We journeyed across the causeway at low tide with no dramas and then spend some time exploring the island. It was so peaceful and quiet – despite all the tourists and you can understand why it was chosen as a spot for a monastery. St Aidan was invited to Nothumbria by King Oswald to establish Christianity in his kingdom from the Scottish monastery at Iona. The monastery continued until the monks fled due to attacks from the Vikings. St Cuthbert was the most celebrated of the monks – he reluctantly became Bishop but then retired and moved over to his own little island to be a hermit. The conditions were extremely austere so either he was extremely tough or ‘a little mad’! They are famous for the Lindisfarne Gospels produced in the late 7th or early 8th century. It was also amazing to see some of the name stones that were made on the island and to find out that they were actually coloured. We certainly just thought of stone work as engraved sandstone but they were brightly coloured and would have been quite stunning. Benedictine monks returned in about 1150 and built the priority and set up a thriving community until it was suppressed by Henry VIII. We also had a look at the castle which was remodelled into a summer holiday home in 1901 for Edward Hudson who owned the magazine ‘Country Life’. The whole island was magnificent and it was such a privilege to spend some time there. We even managed to see some seals (albeit through telescopes) and plenty of bird life.
Being in Scotland we have the chance to explore some of the conflicts between Scotland and England tomorrow with the William Wallace Memorial.

Love to all
S&E



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